A Week Between Islands in Bocas del Toro, Panama
After four months of travelling solo through South America, my life fitted into a backpack: hostels, endless bus rides and plans that sometimes came together at the last minute. In Panama City, the pace of my trip changes. I meet up with my parents, who have flown from France so we can spend two weeks travelling together. It is their first time outside Europe, too. We are excited to discover somewhere new, but, above all, to spend time together again.
Our first stop is Bocas del Toro, an archipelago off Panama’s Caribbean coast. After a week here, we will continue to Costa Rica. For now, we take our time exploring the islands, hopping on boats, going for walks and enjoying the chance to travel as a family.
Flying from Panama City to Bocas del Toro
Almost as soon as we arrive in Panama City, we board a small plane to Bocas Town on Isla Colón, the archipelago’s main island. Travelling overland would mean roughly ten hours on a bus to Almirante, followed by a boat crossing. After my parents’ long flight from France, we decide to skip another full day in transit.
Good to know before booking: domestic flights from Panama City to Bocas del Toro generally depart from Marcos A. Gelabert Airport (PAC), also known as Albrook, rather than Tocumen International Airport. If you are connecting from an international flight, allow plenty of time to transfer between the two. The flight itself takes about an hour, depending on the service.
The plane lands right in Bocas Town. You are never far from the sea here: at the end of almost every street, there is a dock and a water taxi heading to another island.
Bocas Town, the gateway to the islands
Bocas del Toro town, usually called Bocas Town, is the most convenient base for arranging excursions. This is where you will find the airport, accommodation, restaurants, dive centres and boat docks. Step away from the busiest streets, though, and you can take in the colourful houses, boats tied up along the waterfront and everyday activity around the harbour. It is a town where people live, not just a stop on the tourist trail.
Its history goes well beyond beach holidays. The region is home to Indigenous communities, including the Ngäbe, and its Caribbean culture has also been shaped by Afro-Caribbean migration. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, banana growing and the United Fruit Company had a major influence on the local economy. Banana exports later shifted towards Almirante on the mainland. These layers of history help explain why Bocas has a character of its own, quite different from what you might expect of Panama.
We pass through Bocas Town regularly as we plan our days. It is the place to compare boat tours, talk to boat operators or stop for a while before catching a water taxi back to our accommodation.
Staying at Bambuda Lodge on Isla Solarte
We choose Bambuda Lodge on Isla Solarte instead of staying in Bocas Town. To get there, we take a water taxi from Isla Colón; the crossing takes around seven minutes. That extra little journey quickly becomes part of the experience. The busy docks fall behind us, and the lodge comes into view between the jungle and the water.
What I like most is the atmosphere. After months spent mostly around other backpackers, I find a place where families, couples and solo travellers of all ages mix easily. I feel just as comfortable here with my parents as I would on my own. We can spend a quiet day at the lodge or use it as a starting point for exploring the islands.
In the morning, we can join the 7 a.m. yoga session before the heat builds. The lodge also offers a daily walk through the jungle on Solarte, giving us a chance to experience the archipelago away from the boat docks. In the evening, the communal dinner brings everyone together to share stories from the day. The menu changes, and guests need to sign up in advance.
The trade-off of staying on an island is that a trip into town always takes a little planning: every return journey involves a boat and an extra expense. Before booking, I would check the water taxi fares, save a boat operator’s contact details, look at the food options on site and find out where excursions depart. Some tour operators may be able to pick you up from Solarte, but confirm this with them first. If you want to be able to go out in town whenever you like, or keep transport costs down, accommodation in Bocas Town will be more convenient.
Exploring the islands by boat
In Bocas del Toro, getting around often means getting on the water. Many full-day boat tours combine several stops, although the routes vary. We join two excursions: one takes us to Dolphin Bay and the Zapatilla Cays, while the other goes to Playa Estrella. Rather than booking the first trip we see at the dock, we compare the itineraries and ask exactly what is included in the price.
Dolphin Bay and the Zapatilla Cays
Bahía de los Delfines, or Dolphin Bay, is a common stop on boat tours. Dolphins live in this part of the archipelago, but sightings are never guaranteed: they are wild animals. A responsible tour gives them space instead of chasing them for a closer look. Some itineraries continue to Cayo Coral for snorkelling and then on to the Zapatilla Cays, within Bastimentos marine park.
When comparing tours, ask how long you will have at each stop, whether snorkelling gear is included and whether lunch or any park fees cost extra. The itinerary may also change with the weather.
Playa Estrella, the starfish beach
Another option is Playa Estrella, near Boca del Drago in the north of Isla Colón. Its name comes from the starfish that can be seen in the shallow water. You can visit on a boat tour, sometimes combined with Isla Pájaros, or arrange your own transport to Boca del Drago and continue from there according to the conditions on the day.
It can be tempting to pick up a starfish for a photograph, but leave them in the water and do not touch them. Taking your time to watch them where they are is part of the experience.
Leaving some days unplanned
It would be easy to book an excursion for every day of a week-long stay. But some of our favourite moments are the ones without a full schedule: morning yoga, a walk in the jungle or a few hours watching boats pass from the lodge. Those slower days belong in a family trip, too. After months of moving from place to place on my own, they are a big part of what makes Bocas so enjoyable for me.
Scuba diving in Bocas del Toro
There is plenty to discover beneath the surface as well. Several dive centres in Bocas Town offer trips for certified divers and introductory dives for beginners. There are reefs and more sheltered sites around Isla Colón and Isla Solarte, but which sites are available depends on sea conditions, visibility and the divers’ experience. If you are not certified, ask about the requirements for a Discover Scuba Diving session rather than booking a trip intended for qualified divers.
As a guide to the cost, La Buga charges around €60 for one dive, including equipment and supervision. Check the current price, any extra charges, the departure point and the cancellation policy directly with the dive centre before booking.
How much does a trip to Bocas del Toro cost?
The figures below are indicative prices from providers checked in September 2026. Costs may change with the season, the number of people travelling, the itinerary and what is included.
Expense | Indicative price |
Flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro | €60–100 |
Boat from Bocas Town to Almirante | €5 per person |
Water taxi from Bocas Town to Bambuda Lodge | €8–12 for two or three people |
Full-day boat excursion | From €30 per person with a local operator |
One dive with equipment | €60–70 per person |
Yoga session at Bambuda Lodge | €8 per person |
Dorm bed at Bambuda Lodge | €50–60 |
Private double room at Bambuda Lodge | €130–200 |
Leaving by boat for Costa Rica
At the end of our week, we do not fly back. Instead, we take a shared boat from Bocas Town to Almirante on the mainland. The crossing usually takes 30–40 minutes. From there, we travel by road to the Guabito–Sixaola border, which we cross on foot after completing the exit formalities in Panama and the entry formalities in Costa Rica. Once across, we take another vehicle towards our destination, such as Puerto Viejo.
Practical tip: leave early enough to allow for the boat, the road journey and the border crossing. Schedules, fares and entry requirements can change, so check them with the transport operators and relevant authorities shortly before you travel. If you book a combined shuttle, find out whether the price includes the boat, road transport on both sides of the border and assistance with the crossing.
When is the best time to visit Bocas del Toro?
If you are travelling mainly to explore the islands, relax on the beaches, snorkel or dive, September and October generally offer some of the driest weather, along with calmer seas and better underwater visibility. March can also be a good choice.
That does not mean you need to limit your trip to those months: we visited in January and had a lovely time exploring the archipelago. Conditions can vary at any time of year, so leave some flexibility in your plans in case rain or rough seas affect a boat trip. Even in the more favourable months, a tropical shower is always possible.
Is a week in Bocas del Toro enough?
A week works well for Bocas del Toro. It gives you time to visit several islands by boat, enjoy the beaches or go diving, while leaving a few days free to slow down and explore without a fixed plan.
Where you stay will shape the trip. Isla Solarte offers a peaceful setting between the sea and the jungle, but you will need a water taxi whenever you go into Bocas Town. Factor those crossings into your budget, and you can settle into the pace of the archipelago before continuing your journey towards Costa Rica.
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